• Modern British• Highbury
While natural-wine culture has accelerated in post-industrial East London, this recent opening proves that cutting-edge venues with a cult following can have success in other neighbourhoods. Top Cuvée comes from chef Brodie Meah, with input from Max and Noel Venning, the owners of the award-winning Three Sheets bar in Dalston. A thriving retail arm, Shop Cuvée, has been made permanent after it became one of the success stories of the London lockdown in food and drink.
The food is largely modern British, with some outside influences. They serve sharing plates with interesting ingredients that don’t stray too far into the hipster fine-dining realm. Wines lean new-school and natural, with skin-contact wines and aromatic blends with brash labels taking precedence over more traditional selections.
A sleek black frontage and simple wooden tables surrounded by shelves of wine to browse while you eat suggest a confident and modern take on the neighbourhood bistro, while the venue is especially popular as a date spot.
Top Cuvée is a spacious wine bar and restaurant off the Blackstock Road that’s a fine addition to the area for anybody looking for a couple of glasses and a couple of croquettes before being on their merry way.
You don’t really go to the Blackstock Road expecting bistros or wine bars, so Top Cuvée is a welcome addition to the area, and was already doing a lively trade on the cold autumn weeknight of our visit
Now, if you know London and you know restaurants, then the details above, coupled with this thwarted quest for atmospheric gloom, may prove instructive about this new bistro and wine bar in Highbury.
The bistro menu is short and reasonably uncomplicated, with dishes priced between £6 and £14, which is much more in line with expectation.
The vibe inside is clean and simple, with a lot of wood, white tile, and pendant lights, in the vein of a simple Parisian bistro.