• Modern British• London Bridge
Tom Sellers racked up a considerable amount of experience in fine-dining before opening his first restaurant near Tower Bridge in 2013, having worked under Thomas Keller at New York’s Per Se and Rene Redzepi at Noma in Copenhagen, to name a few. His approach to contemporary fine dining won Story a Michelin star shortly after opening, and it added a second in 2021.
Any meal at Restaurant Story is always a memorable one, with a luxurious but contemporary-feeling dining room and slick and attentive service from its front-of-house team. A meal here isn’t cheap, but it’s the kind of restaurant that suits a special occasion more than an everyday dinner.
Story is tasting-menu-only, priced at £100 for the seven-course lunch and £145 for a nine-course dinner with canapés, plus a pairing option that can include stirred cocktails, barley wines and ciders in addition to wines. Courses are often inspired by moments in Sellers’ life (hence the restaurant’s name), such as a beef dripping candle whose flame melts the fat into tallow to be mopped up with house-made bread, inspired by the roast dinners of Sellers’ childhood.
I can't remember a meal that prompted so many actual, physical reactions: faces purse like cats' arses at the pain-pleasure bursts of sourness in a rhubarb, custard and cream soda dessert.
Whether or not there is too static a quality to this no-choice menu is currently irrelevant, as tables are apparently fully booked until June, but for all its charms — and there are many — Story seems a restaurant to tick off on a list rather than make a regular haunt.
Book a table now. Restaurant Story deserves to be a bestseller.
Lunch was a thrill-a-minute experience. A succession of showstopping dishes began with a couple of insanely delicious pre-starters. First a wafer of translucent cod skin, dusted with 'gin botanicals' (powdered juniper berries) and dotted with whipped cod roe.
The rapid succession of small, artfully crafted dishes at this Bermondsey outpost of modernist cuisine is playful, but the artistry’s not mere gimmickry.
There are lots of great stories about restaurants, but – as you’ve probably noticed – no great restaurants about stories.
Awards