• Modern European• Covent Garden
Chef and former journalist Skye Gyngell was previously the head chef at Petersham Nurseries – when it won its Michelin star, no less – and she brings a similar seasonal approach to British ingredients here.
Beautiful plants, soft fabrics and vaulted ceilings make this an exquisite place to exist for a few hours, and the style of service is friendly and respectful without being overbearing. It all adds up to a fantastic venue for a well-deserved date night with someone special.
Similarly to Petersham Nurseries, food here leans modern British but with more than a few French and European influences. You’re as likely to find a beautiful grilled pork chop as gnocchi with nettles or grilled friggitelli peppers with confit winter tomatoes. The scratch menu – timed for the pre-theatre crowd, between 5 and 6:30 pm, and priced at £25 for three courses – is a great way to try Gyngell’s food at affordable prices.
At night, it’s seductive and dreamy. During the day it’s chillier: as pale, precious and studied as Dita Von Teese
Despite pastel paintwork and dainty decorative detail of white blossom sculptures on the walls, the lofty, pillared room is oddly bureaucratic.
Its décor makes a fabulous first impression, but then Skye Gyngell’s new venture is all about taste
Spring may charge expense-account prices, but when we visit, our fellow diners – arty, interesting-looking and (necessarily) rich – didn't seem to be an expense-account crowd.
Chef Skye Gyngell's return to London, at Somerset House, brings us simple Italian cooking but at haute cuisine prices.
To understand how this “seasonal menu” works in real time, consider the following highlights from October: slow cooked pork shoulder; turbot with bone marrow and porcini; burrata and speck with pickled pumpkin; and warm chocolate cake with candied chestnuts and sweet cream.