• Modern European• Hackney
Pophams founder Ollie Gold long harboured a dream to open a successful bakery inspired by the upmarket bakeries of Vienna and Paris, and did so in 2017 after working in catering for Formula 1 teams. He’s joined by executive chef Phil Smith, who oversees the group’s savoury offering at its Hackney restaurant.
If you’re just popping in for a bite in the daytime, you can’t go wrong with the bakery’s croissants, which are consistently rated among the best in London. For dinner, the menu shifts to a more Italian theme, with plates of fresh pasta cooked with seasonal ingredients alongside delicious small plates.
A little like another bakery and restaurant in East London, Jolene, Pophams has an open and airy vibe, with high ceilings and plenty of room for diners to stretch out. An open kitchen where the chefs and bakers work, along with post-industrial interiors, keep things down-to-earth.
Here, the Islington patisserie whisperer best known for its lacquered, interestingly flavoured croissants has briskly pivoted to what may be one of the more subtly potent new dinner offerings in the capital.
Pophams is a less risky proposition, and has worked to make the space more cosy by installing a bakery counter at one end and piling sacks of flour high along the walls.
From excellent coffee and silence-inducing pastries, to lunchtime toasties that soak away the night before, to fine handmade pasta in the evening.
The space itself is stripped back, and hyper-functional: the huge open kitchen dominates the space at the back where you’ll be able to see the chefs busily mixing & rolling pasta all day. That kitchen overlooks the wooden sharing tables in the main space, and it’s all wrapped by concrete walls, bare except for a few minimalist artworks.