• French• Holborn
Restaurateur Otto Tepasse is a skilled maître d’ who had clocked up experience at some of the best restaurants in Europe before opening Otto’s in the early 2010s. Despite the fact he owns and operates the restaurant, Tepasse still takes a hands-on role in the daily service, and is famous for guiding diners through their meal with characteristic enthusiasm.
The restaurant feels like a modern relic, with velvet-upholstered booths and rugged wooden chairs surrounding tables with white tablecloths and bottles of wine lining the walls. A private dining area that can seat up to 32 people is popular with big parties.
Much of Otto’s menu is unashamedly classic French, so much so that you might feel like you’re eating in a Paris brasserie in the 1950s, with Poulet de Bresse, Anjou pigeon and savoury soufflés all accounted for. The dishes that made the restaurant’s name are undoubtedly those served tableside, like the canard à la presse, a roasted duck brought to the table and crushed in a mechanical press to make a rich accompanying sauce from the juices.
Classical cooking as a spectator sport has all but died out. At Otto's, though, it's all part of an epic dining experience
Otto opened this heavily, painfully, classic French restaurant in 2011, yet from the gist of the place it might have been 1911.
Under narrow eyes set wide apart and a gentle, greying side-parting, he sports a vast European nose and flashes an erudite and mostly toothless smile.
Otto brings the bird to the table flambéed in red wine and brown sugar, the alcohol bubbling and burning off in a blue flame.