• Modern British• Bloomsbury
This iconic wine bar and restaurant was founded by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew, who shared a love of seeking out exquisite wines from the Old and New Worlds alongside simply cooked and elegant sharing plates. The two began the brand as Noble Rot magazine, a publication shining a light on exciting and disruptive winemakers, before opening the Bloomsbury restaurant in 2015 and following it up with a Soho wine bar.
Inside, the Lamb’s Conduit Street location feels like a classic French wine bar, with dark wooden tables, velvet curtains and daily specials written in chalk on blackboards. It’s a great venue for dinner, but remains one of the best restaurants in the area for a long lunch.
Dishes like beef tartare and simply cooked Isle of Mull scallops are always popular, but the menu changes frequently to showcase seasonal ingredients. A set lunch menu is a snip at £22 for three courses, while the wine list isn’t enormous, but is incredibly well-curated, with almost everything available by the glass or carafe.
Everything from the food, to the atmosphere, to the cartoons in the toilets is spot on. Noble Rot calls itself a wine bar and restaurant but it feels more like a public member’s club, if there is such a thing.
When I say that the new Noble Rot is heavenly, it is not poetic frippery; this is more or less what the big dining room in the sky is for me: an informal yet ostensibly formal, louche lunching spot with posh roast chicken and chocolate mousse
Noble Rot did not appear in a flash of over-the-top fawning. It was quietly great but slightly misunderstood, and then moved on to being heroically brilliant.
Noble Rot did not appear in a flash of over-the-top fawning. It was quietly great but slightly misunderstood, and then moved on to being heroically brilliant.
For mains, roast Challans duck and turnip, and Middle White pork belly with celeriac and Bramley apple sauce.
The warm, knowledgeable staff are lovely, while in the front the room, the boisterous spirit of a wine bar is very much alive – hardly surprising, given the affordability of the list
A roaring log fire inside a laidback wine bar staffed by some of London’s friendliest – and most knowledgeable – wine aficionados