• Turkish• Dalston
Mangal 2 can trace its roots back to the 1990s, when former owner Ali Dirrik opened one of the UK’s first genuine Ocakbasi (Turkish charcoal grill) restaurants, Mangal 1, down the road. Dirrik opened Mangal 2 in its current location and sold the first restaurant. He has since left operations to sons Ferhat and Sertaç. After the forced closure in the first Covid lockdown, the brothers took the opportunity to reimagine the restaurant, with a menu inspired by Sertaç’s time cooking in Copenhagen, alongside a new list of low-intervention wines.
While Mangal 2’s former BYO policy and late-night license usually meant a boisterous and loud atmosphere, things have quieted down a little bit since the reopening, as the restaurant prioritises quality food and service over turning tables. The atmosphere’s still buzzy and friendly, while attentive service staff are happy to recommend dishes if you’re stuck on the menu.
Much of the food menu has remained true to its roots as a traditional Ocakbasi restaurant, but there are a few dishes on its menus and specials that hint at the brothers’ love of contemporary-feeling food. The pide – Turkish bread – is now enlivened with sourdough starter, grilled over coals and served with cultured kaymak butter, while mushroom manti dumplings have been a hit since the reopening.
It’s brave and compelling and properly delicious
Mangal II is attempting to redefine what Turkish cuisine is. Fehrat has a lot to say on the topic,
Yet the willingness of the Diriks to shake things up, in the midst of a public health catastrophe no less, is to be applauded.