• Sri-Lankan• Soho
Perched right in the centre of Soho on Frith Street, Hoppers’ Soho site is long and narrow, perhaps belied by its tiny frontage. Inside, its wood panelling and cosy booths mean an approachable and fun vibe, perfect for a weekend lunch with friends.
The JKS group arguably set the standard for Indian fine dining in London with Trishna and Gymkhana, and have since diversified, helping to operate the BAO group and Berenjak, and owning stakes in Kitchen Table and Lyle’s as well as Hoppers.
Hoppers is all about the classic cuisine of Sri Lanka, the teardrop-shaped island off the southern tip of India, and there are recognisable influences from the coastal cuisine of Goa and the surrounding area in its curries and dosas. Sri Lanka’s culinary heritage is well worth diving into. Flawless execution of dishes like the lamb kothu roti and the classic hopper pancake that lends it its name means it’s probably the best place in London for a Sri Lankan feast.
Hoppers is a Sri Lankan restaurant on Frith Street, and it’s one of the best places anywhere in town to eat delicious spicy things.
The secret weapon here, other than the extremely good-value food – and the food is marvellous – is the enthusiastic staff in their logoed orange polo shirts.
The word “hoppers” to describe the pancakes made from fermented rice and coconut milk batter that are popular in southern India and Sri Lanka allegedly came about due to the way the British in the sub-continent pronounced the Tamil word “appam”.
Hoppers is the latest in a run of excellent openings from the Sethi family, who own Bao and Gymkhana, both of which I gave rave reviews. They also back Lyle's, which I think is one of London's best restaurants.
Hurrah, some of you will cry: a Hoppers for grown-ups. This time, the fashionable Sri-Lankan-slash-south-Indian spot has moved out of sexy Soho, into mature Marylebone.
Inspired by the roadside street food stalls of Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka, the menu features a collection of ‘short eats’ like hot butter devilled shrimp, duck roti and bone marrow varuvals; hoppers