• Indian• Bermondsey
Gunpowder Tower Bridge follows the successful original site in Spitalfields, which co-founders Harneet and Davina Baweja set up in 2014, with the aim of serving Indian sharing dishes inspired by the food culture of their native Kolkata.
A short walk from London Bridge and Tower Bridge, the restaurant is located in the recently opened, modern-feeling One Tower Bridge development alongside restaurants like Rosa’s Thai Cafe and Tom Simmonds. Inside, it’s a little more casual than its sparkling exterior suggests, with a two-floor dining room whose exposed brick and low lighting give an intimate feel.
Dishes continue the first site’s theme, with delicious, moreish snacking plates and chaat dishes complemented by roasted meats, chops and more. Standout dishes include the lamb cutlets and a masala-spiced, roasted whole broccoli, while dishes like Old Monk Rum pudding, a version of bread and butter pudding served with rum-infused custard, hint at Kolkata’s colonial history. The site also includes an Indian-inspired bakery operation selling bread and cakes to take away.
Now they’ve opened a second Gunpowder in a new location at Tower Bridge, and it feels like a couple of albums later. Or after a few years at the top of the league. Still great. Still consistent. Just a little less exciting.
Split over two floors, this riverside spot is much bigger than the Spitalfields original, and it has a more stylish, contemporary design (polished marble floors, vintage red leather seating), jazzily offset by a soundtrack of old-school Indian tracks.
A definite dialogue between the traditions of the subcontinent and the wider world, or the wider world as refracted through the London restaurant scene of the late 2010s, seemed exciting and admirable
Spread over both floors, the sprawling restaurant space has room for more than double the number of diners as the original (which at 20, wasn’t hard)