• British• Covent Garden
Named for a 19th-century socialite and located in an old Covent Garden townhouse, Cora Pearl evokes the ceremony of old-school dining with its vaulted ceilings, roomy but comfy tables and intimate downstairs bar.
The restaurant is the second venue from the team who opened Kitty Fisher’s, a modern British eatery in the storied Shepherd Market in Mayfair that centres around a wood-fired grill. Cora Pearl shares its predecessor’s predilection towards classic British dishes and its embedded sense of history.
Food here is indeed unashamedly British, and the menu reads like it could have been written a century or more ago. Dishes themselves are full of refinement and packed with flavour. Highlights include the cheese and ham toastie, and a take on the Pommes pavés-style chips made famous by the Quality Chop House, among others.
The food, on the whole, is a delight. There are echoes of the original Kitty Fisher’s menu here, with a number of snacks and starters centred around toast. Sound ordinary? They weren’t.
That’s what Cora Pearl feels like: a ramshackle dinner party in a slightly too small room hosted by someone who loves food but isn’t going to mess up your evening with pipettes of nettle juice and obscure bits of offal no one actually likes.
It’s good, Cora Pearl. Without question, though, the best thing about it is the chips. As you’d expect in a trendy part of London, the menu isn’t cheap – but the chips are only £5
He’s come up with a menu that feels both familiar and fancy, elevating comfort food with top-notch ingredients and presenting plates with that signature Kitty Fisher’s flair.