Circolo Popolare

Before Circolo Popolare opened, Gloria was the first UK venture from the Big Mamma Group, a French hospitality group that had operated successful Italian restaurants in Paris, and arrived here with a big reputation for a refreshingly fun and laid-back dining style.

If Gloria’s vibe is fun, Circolo’s verges on the ridiculous, with an enormous room featuring wraparound bars, a massive dining room and glitzy decor. The atmosphere is never anything less than fun, meaning it’s a great shout for a date with abounding natural icebreakers, or an all-out celebration for a landmark birthday. Queuing is often a necessity, but it does take reservations.

The food here is big on flavour and little on pretension: spaghetti with meatballs, huge pizzas and fritto misto all take centre stage. Carbonara and cacio e pepe are served tableside from a huge wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, while the lemon meringue pie – topped with an enormous torched meringue on top – is a must-order.