• French• Covent Garden
Balthazar comes from Richard Caring's Caprice Holdings group, an operator that counts historic venues like The Ivy, J Sheekey and Scott's among its portfolio, as well as more recent openings like Harry's Dolce Vita and Balthazar, which opened in London in 2013.
The Balthazar concept was brought over from the original site in New York's SoHo district, and the London restaurant definitely has a New York feel to it. Huge booths upholstered in red leather and marble pillars lining the dining room give the space a sumptuous, celebratory feel.
Despite its origins, the food menu has a classic French brasserie feel, not unlike Brasserie Zedel around the corner in Piccadilly. Starters include a classic French onion soup, duck liver parfait or roquefort and endive salad, while confit duck and steak frites entrecôte appear on the list of mains. American touches do creep in – there's a hamburger, mac and cheese and lobster spaghetti are all here – while there's a serious emphasis on spirits, with a creative cocktail list and an extensive list of American whiskey.
It doesn’t quite capture the magic of the New York original, but it’s still an excellent go-to for classic French dishes in grand surroundings.
Balthazar has arrived in London in a cloud of hype. A shame then that it fails to live up to the expectation
Highlights of the hors d’oeuvres tried were escargots, where in the garlicky, buttery juices a piece of bread gently bathed; salt cod brandade with brittle croutons
Stick to a mid-afternoon croque-monsieur, and enjoy this magnificent room on the cheap.
The crowd is an unusual, all-ages mix of uptown and downtown-SoHo with a smattering of Upper East Side, in Manhattan terms.
A polished imitation of a New York institution - itself an interpretation of a buzz-tastic French brasserie. Booking essential.
The large menu covers everything from breakfast and brunch (scrambled eggs and Cornish crab on toast; NYC pancakes) through to the famous Balthazar Cheeseburger, the moules frites and the shareable