• Modern European• Brixton
Founded by Harrogate-born chef Nicholas Balfe, Salon started life as a pop-up, which took residence in the restaurant's now permanent site in 2015. Balfe has since added Levan, a beautiful restaurant and wine bar in Peckham Rye.
The restaurant makes great use of a small space, with its bright blue shop-front giving way to a compact but breezy dining room. Long banqueting-style tables mix with smaller tables for four, while the vibe is always approachable even if the food has trappings of fine dining.
Salon's food is rooted in bistronomy – neighbourhood-style service but food that's artful, creative and ambitious – and the menu often changes, depending on what the kitchen team can source from the small array of producers they work with. A set menu is just under £50, while the waiting staff can help you choose from a good list of characterful low-intervention wines.
Dinner is a set menu; a shorter option and an extended one. I opted for the smaller one as, believe me, life is too bloody short to agree to any chef’s extended menu.
Booking Salon as a dinner destination for you and your mates will instantly earn you a seat at the cool kids’ table.
The service is delightful. In the evenings, there’s a set menu, so your options are limited, but don’t panic: the food is all outstanding.
Food-wise, the new menu boasts small bar plates like ‘Nduja croquettes, and wild rabbit ragu with house-made pappardelle to accompany the wine and cocktail list down in the bar.