• Modern British• Vauxhall
Darby’s is the brainchild of Robin Gill, an Irish chef who had previously opened The Dairy, Counter Culture and Sorella in Clapham, and one of the London proponents of ‘bistronomy’, a style of cooking that marries fine-dining-style dishes with a relaxed neighbourhood feel.
The huge restaurant opened at Embassy Gardens, a complex in South West London that houses the gleaming new American Embassy building. Vaulted ceilings, spacious tables, marble counters and a huge dining room bring an impressive and palatial quality to the restaurant.
Darby’s focuses on many homemade products. It has an in-house bakery where the team bake bread and pastries daily, and a special room for curing charcuterie, too.
Darby’s is a spacious oyster bar, restaurant, bakery, and all-round comfortable place to eat and drink well in near Vauxhall.
An unpretentious but elegant Irish-American restaurant and bar where the service is sharp and the menu brilliant
For Sunday lunch, when there is live music from early afternoon, we sit in the restaurant with a sideways view into the magnificent kitchen.
The fish is cooked impeccably, and sides, of borlotti beans with herbs and greens, glorious Cuore del Vesuvio tomatoes anointed with Capezzana olive oil and a simple and perfect green salad are flawless.
And the food? Mostly excellent. We were dazzled by a duo of meaty beef nuggets with tarragon mustard, a couple of killer arancini, and a gooey slick of truffley Baron Bigod brie spread over homebaked sourdough
What’s even more impressive, though, is the restaurant already open below it, which comes to you from Robin Gill – the man behind such south London restaurant luminaries as The Dairy and Sorella.