Bright

When the owners of the acclaimed Hackney restaurant P. Franco and merchant Noble Wines announced the opening of Bright, the food world sat up and watched. Founder Liam Kelleher and his team have expanded and refined the former’s offering to a bigger space in London Fields’ Netil House.

Where P. Franco is a bolthole, Bright is airy and spacious, with light colours ushering in light and plenty of space between tables. Service is just what you’d expect from an operation rooted in wine, with always knowledgeable staff on hand to make selections if you need help pairing wines to your food. Part of the restaurant works as a shop, where you can buy bottles to take away.

A huge wine list is the centrepiece of the Bright experience, which leans almost exclusively natural and low-intervention, as you’d expect. This is as much a wine bar as a restaurant, so you can pair food to what you’re drinking, rather than the other way around, with simple but effective dishes like in-season asparagus with brown butter hollandaise, or fried skate wing with anchovy and lemon.